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Q: I have a question for Erin. I know from a recent top ten list of hers that I'm supposed to exfoliate for beautiful, rosy, youthful skin. But I don't know which kind of exfoliation is best: non-abrasive alpha-hydroxy/beta hydroxy masks (I have one from Dermalogica), glycolic acid, either in the form of a night treatment or those Peter Thomas Roth pads, or just a regular old Neutrogena clear pore scrub?

So many options, so much confusion!
xo
S.

A: When it comes to exfoliants, there really are soooo many options (way too many, if you ask me, which um, you did), and sooo much confusion. Luckily, there are some products that are so good they really stand out among the rest, and make the whole process much easier to tolerate.

First, just for review purposes, here are some basics. Clearly, you already know why we exfoliate (to get rid of pore-clogging, complexion dulling dead skin cells, a natural process that slows as we age). And maybe you already know that there are two ways to exfoliate: mechanical, which involves a synthetic or natural abrasive (such as beads, seeds and the like); and chemical, as in fruit acids, glycolics, etc.

Okay, now back to your question: With so many different products and ways to go about exfoliating, how the hell are you supposed to know which one to settle on? I even get intimidated when I go to the drugstore. There is so much crap on the shelves! But while there are wonderful inexpensive cleansers, moisturizers and all sorts of other products out there, exfoliant is one I recommend spending a little extra on. It's one arena where you really do get what you pay for.

Most importantly, like choosing any product, you really need to assess your skin type. The most major deciding factor when it comes to exfoliation is how much can your skin take, or rather, how sensitive is it? Some baby-like skin types have been known to become instantly red and inflamed after a chemical peel. If this is the case, then you'd do better to avoid those Peter Thomas Roth glycolic pads you have, because they contain glycolic and alcohol, which can be too harsh and drying. (In fact, some derms say to never use alcohol on your face and I only recommend it for cleaning a popped blemish...)

Definitely stick with the brand Dermalogica, but focus on a different product. A milder alternative is their very, very excellent, gentle and dermatologist-recommended Daily Microfoliant, which combines rice bran and sal acid--in addition to skin tone improving licorice, which makes your skin look better all around. I've used this for years on my own sensitive, acne-prone skin, and I recommend it often because people seem to have amazing results after they've spent some time with it. Try using it every other day while your skin gets used to it, and if you can take it, bump it up to everyday usage. Rice barn enzymes are a great alternative for anyone with sensitive skin: Adorable Japanese skincare brand Komenuka-Bijin makes great products in this category, too.

While those with less sensitive skin have a few more options--another product I frequently recommend, MD Skincare Alpha-Beta Daily Face Peel, a chemical exfoliant that will keep your skin out of trouble--don't just settle for any old scrub. I love Neutrogena for many things, but they don't make an exfoliant I can get obsessed with. And I never, ever recommend any products that contain synthetic manual exfoliants, because they suck for the environment, so if a label lists polyethylene beads or something that sounds similarly sketchy, boycott! Same goes for natural scrubs with large grains. They're too rough to be used on your face, even if the label says otherwise. (Don't throw them out though--they're great for thicker body skin.)

If you want any elaboration or have more questions, never hesitate to throw 'em my way!